What is noteworthy, however, is that the experience of travel is changing as fast as the world is shrinking. In the last five years, recognizable upscale shops and hotels have lined the most central boulevards of Ho Chi Minh City in much the same way that they have in European cities and other world capitals. As we will see the same high-end shops and hotels in very different parts of the world, the idea of travel is curtailed into something that has hardened expectations and a lofty standard of living. Consequently, the natural and unique elements to a culture are cornered to its more remote parts, which are often far away from a city's most beautiful and historical centers- the favorite spots of international businesses. Globalization may be integral to economies, but it is certainly impacting a country's ability to show off its unique cultural footprint. In fact, just yesterday McDonald's announced that it will be coming to Vietnam in two years. Not that I would ever complain about the sensational high that comes from biting into a Big Mac or McGriddle, but as a result the company will streamline other small restaurants to keep up with the latest standards of fast food. There are countless other examples of the effects of merging economic markets, in many different industries, but my point is this: I've learned that the only way to truly experience the connection of a unique culture to its native landscape is by learning the language and adapting to the conventions of its people. When traveling to a new place, the best expectation to have is none at all.
I question whether I can be so cynical as I still struggle with Vietnamese and just this past week, I ordered both Mexican and Indian takeout. Some days I wake up late and still take a nap in the afternoon to escape the heat or rain. But this is because my sense of normalcy in Vietnam has converged with my bottomless intrigue for new cultures so that I can live a life of personal comfort that also rationalizes the localized way of life. No doubt that I'm still learning to travel "right", but Vietnam is continuing to teach me.
On the average day, I will wake up around 9 am (or earlier if the construction on the house next door involves hammering) and then I will check the news, my email, etc. In the afternoon I will run any needed errands or meet people for lunch or drink coffee roadside. Then I will take a quick nap before I lesson-plan and hit the rush-hour roads for work. After my three hour class, I often meet other teachers or friends for a few drinks or the occasional wild night out. Or sometimes I'll just come home and read or watch a few episodes of a recommended TV show online. Saturdays and Sundays are full of kids classes from 7:45 am to 5 pm, and often result in heavier drinking. My routine has essentially been set, but just because it repeats itself doesn't mean I need to lose the excitement of living in different country. At any time I am able to remind myself that I'm a full 9830 miles from home and because of that there is no limit to wonderment. I'll call it Revitalizing Repetition.
With this learned complacency, I've decided to stay an entire year in Ho Chi Minh City instead of just six months. Half of a year is not enough time to gain proper experience as an ex-patriot or teacher. And, there is much more traveling to be had in Asia before I embark back to the West. You can imagine my mother's reaction to this- her visit to the psychiatrist's office is imminent. But I know what you are thinking- this means there is more time to visit. Just be sure to reserve your dates in advance and your request for a bum gun, squatty potty, or Western toilet. Complimentary travel wipes provided.
The view of downtown HCMC, from a bridge on my daily route from work to home
The VUS campus (in Khanh Hoi, district 4) where I most often teach (there are 12 throughout the city)
My teen class on the last day- the most challenging and most fun class to teach
A typical lunch- Chicken, veggies, rice, soup, and Coke = $1.50 or 30,000 VND
5:45 pm rush hour on my way to work. Notice the beer delivery system.
The biggest roundabout (or more accurately, circus) in the city and the front of the central market, Ben Thanh
Saigon River
The recurrent, skinny buildings of modern Vietnamese city-planning
My shoe compared to that of Cuc's (the petite albeit vigorous cleaning lady)
The phở lady on my street, proudly sporting a hearty chicken leg
My street, Lý Chính Thắng, with my alley down the road on the left